When I got to Malta, I anticipated throngs of people with sunburned skin, extortionately priced ice cream (it’s really a big deal here), tacky artworks depicting local sights being sold by street artists, along with cheap key chains. And naturally, I expected hints of yesterday evening’s revelry hanging in the atmosphere.
I had been told it was somewhat “terrible” — intense, I admit — so I imagined the location as being sweltering and typically packed with visitors and long lines almost everywhere you went.
Certainly, I envisioned charming cobblestone lanes and structures made from golden-hued sandstone here.
Malta
– But let’s face it, numerous locations are beautiful. However, when they’re crowded, they become far less so. Far, far less so.
Malta’s glitzier
Mediterranean
Neighbors akin to Santorini and the Amalfi Coast possess that quality abundantly.
A few years back, I had casually and somewhat indifferently cast a look towards Malta as I was traveling aboard a ferry headed elsewhere.
Gozo
, which is more serene and frequently overlooked as its smaller sibling island.
Gozo
It was picturesque—rolling hills, quaint villages, and a relaxed lifestyle that seemed as though the Mediterranean had decided to stay in bed longer. Why then should one consider visiting Malta, its livelier and more touristed counterpart?
Why navigate through cluttered spaces filled with discarded cans of whatever kids are drinking nowadays and compete for room on overcrowded shores when I can enjoy the peace of Gozo instead?
I’ll concede that it’s somewhat pompous to demand that a location must win your approval. However, with countless places competing for notice, time becomes quite precious. I believed that Malta needed to justify its inclusion in my travel plans.
Yet there I stood, firmly planted on Maltese ground at last. A circle of companions—whose refined travel preferences I hold in high regard—had organized a wintertime getaway to this island and extended an invitation for me to tag along.
They planned to go to the island whether I was with them or not. After enduring London’s soul-crushing drizzle for months, even an uncertain place seemed preferable to another day under gray skies. Thus, I gave in.
My cab arrived at
The Xara Palace
, a 17th-century Baroque palace that seemingly materialized from thin air, nestled in a tranquil nook
Mdina
still precisely located at the heart of the city.
On the exterior, it appeared rather subdued – nearly unimpressive, actually. However, once you enter, wow! An impressive concave ceiling loomed overhead, captivating my attention as though I were an astonished youngling. The arched design made me feel as if I were entering a majestic church. Staff members welcomed me with a glass of 2015 Louis Roederer Cristal, giving off the sense that they somehow knew exactly who I am before I even stepped through the door.
However, I was set on maintaining my poker face—I wouldn’t allow them to notice how thoroughly awed I felt right from the start. Yet within me? Joyful somersaults. Exuberant, championship-caliber somersaults.
I was shown to my accommodation, a two-story suite that was both distinctive and cozy. The Xara Palace takes pride in offering uniquely different spaces—each room varies—and mine certainly adhered to this characteristic.
Above, a Jacuzzi offered an expansive view of the city, which was unquestionably stunning. With champagne in grasp, I reflected, Well, this is a promising beginning.
Once I cleaned up from London, I headed onto the cobblestones.
Mdina
The island’s historic walled town is often referred to as the “Silent City.” As I strolled down its cramped lanes, I doubted this moniker. Silent? That couldn’t be right.
However, as I wandered deeper, the noise of contemporary life gradually disappeared – sheer delight. Our tour guide, Don, was an engaging local who had us laughing uncontrollably within moments.
He referred to the elaborate door handles as “knockers” and persisted with this description until our uncontrollable laughter made him stop.
Don shared stories of Mdina’s history, how it was once a haven for pirates and a refuge for Malta’s nobility.
It was all perfect and reminiscent of a ghost town. Hmm? What happened to the unpleasant throngs? We wandered through Plaza San Pawl, explored the
Domus Romana
, and delved into the spooky
St. Paul’s Catacombs
It offered an intriguing look at Malta’s complex history – yet still, nobody appeared.
I too enjoyed having the entire Palazzo Vilhena, an impressive Baroque structure constructed in the 18th century by Grand Master Antonio Manoel de Vilhenea, solely to myself.
This site is renowned for its elaborate architectural features, such as an impressive facade and detailed internal ornamentation. Currently, it serves as the home of the National Museum of Natural History, which displays Malta’s natural history via exhibitions focusing on plants, animals, fossils, and rocks.
That night, I had dinner at
Trattoria AD 1530
One of The Xara Palace’s two dining establishments, this more casual restaurant provided a warm ambiance and a menu showcasing authentic Maltese cuisine.
I enjoyed steak with fries, yet what made this meal special needs explaining. The Mdina fries stand out from typical ones. Residents take pride in these potatoes, and rightly so—they tasted as though I was discovering potatoes anew. It’s surprising how much praise one can have for a simple spud, but that was indeed my experience.
The following morning, I found myself enjoying a lavish breakfast at Xara Palace. The meal included poached eggs, just-squeezed orange juice, warm croissants, and fluffy pancakes—yes, all those delights. As I dug into this feast, I relished the breathtaking vista of Mdina’s scenery, making it an ideal beginning for my day.
Later, I visited the
Cathedral Museum
, where archivist Mario Gauchi enthusiastically walked me through a collection spanning centuries of artifacts.
He breathed life into the past through tales that made you feel as though you had walked right into a living history book. The entry fee is €10 (approximately £8.50).
Meanwhile, nearby,
Casa Gourgion
provided an intriguing look at Malta’s noble history. Constructed in 1680, this renovated residence was previously the location of extravagant gatherings thrown by Baron Giuseppe De Piro Gourgion, renowned for his flamboyance and significant influence in social and political spheres.
The aristocrat was renowned for his lavish living, numerous romantic partners, and opulent parties.
Ahead of his time, he organized events that mirrored the opulence of British aristocracy during that period, frequently held in private due to their lavish nature – and by 17th-century standards – their decadence.
He passed away in 1743, yet the residence continues to be owned by his descendants through his granddaughter. It’s definitely worth visiting because it offers a journey back in time and provides insight into an unorthodox aspect of Malta. The entry fee is set at €7 (roughly equivalent to £6).
Next up was more food, wonderful food. It was lunchtime.
The Medina Restaurant
, where I relished a sumptuous feast of freshly caught sea creatures and regional vintages.
The ambiance was delightful, featuring lofty ceilings and a glass ceiling allowing natural light in, complemented by exceptional service. The cost typically ranged from £24 to £34 per person.
That evening, I participated in a wine-tasting session led by the renowned sommelier Duane Hendricks within the facility.
Palazzino Belvedere
– as you do.
The atmospheric surroundings, featuring arched ceilings and vintage furnishings, lent an air of a historical film set to the event.
This wasn’t your typical wine-tasting experience. Duane has extensive knowledge and keeps things lively with his charming personality and playful humor, which could make you spit out the rosé—though that’s perfectly fine in this setting.
Private tastings can be organized for groups via The Xara Palace — essential for wine lovers. That evening’s dinner took place at the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant.
de Mondion
restaurant.
I typically think tasting menus are excessive — too lavish and never-ending. However, this six-course masterpiece hit the spot perfectly. Every plate showcased meticulous preparation, ranging from the exquisite seafood appetizers to the sumptuous sweet endings, complemented by regional wines. This dining experience will linger long in my memory.
The following day, after yet another heavenly breakfast, I moved on.
Ta’ Qali Crafts Village
for a tour and a glass-blowing experience at
Mdina Glass
.
Observing the craftsmen as they worked was captivating, and I had the opportunity to attempt making a small item myself. Lunch came next.
Trattoria AD 1530
, where I treated myself to more Maltese delicacies.
That summed it up perfectly. Though brief, it was utterly delightful—time to say farewell to Mdina and The Xara Palace, where each room had its own charming twist, and the staff were welcoming and considerate without crossing boundaries, making one truly feel at home instead of just another patron.
I heard from a reliable source that this was even the preferred getaway spot for King Charles during his visit to Malta – a location befitting royalty. Just as I prepared to depart from the vacant yet stunning city of Mdina, someone mentioned that I shouldn’t leave without trying one of Malta’s beloved dishes, which people here enjoy multiple times daily.
I stopped by the cherished Crystal Palace café to enjoy a pastizzi. This pastry is more delicate than a croissant and filled with either ricotta cheese or mashed peas. Locals flock to this popular place, where they can get freshly made ones for under €1 (approximately 85p).
Now, it was time to set off for
Valletta
, Malta’s lively capital. Lively? That term gave me pause. Do you recall the rowdy, sun-scorched atmosphere I described before? Could this be where I would witness it truly emerge?
The journey highlighted a dramatic juxtaposition of past and present – with historic ramparts adjacent to contemporary structures.
A cab ride typically costs about €20-€25 (roughly £17-£21), however, Malta has an adorable eccentric bus system providing a more economical choice, where tickets begin at just €2 per journey (around £1.70).
I was told
Iniala Harbour House
It was the trendiest spot in town. Its contemporary and stylish decor coupled with top-notch service turned it into an excellent starting point for discovering the island. Iniala is renowned for its counterpart establishment in Thailand, famous for each of its rooms being functional works of art—vibrant and cutting-edge.
The modern boutique
Valletta
The hotel, tracing its roots back to the 17th century and featuring 23 distinctively styled rooms and suites, is undoubtedly charming in its shared spaces.
The chamber I occupied was situated at the far end of the structure, featuring a slender glass sliding door that offered merely a peek into the enchanting landscape beyond.
It would have been fantastic if I secured one of the rooms featuring large windows that showcased the hotel’s impressive highlight – the breathtaking vista of the Grand Harbour – like my fortunate friends did. However, these spots get reserved rapidly, so instead, I ended up with a room where the ceiling felt like a cloud, but it still worked out well enough.
The hotel featured bold abstract paintings in some spots and delicate sculptures elsewhere, yet these did not detract from the beautiful and modern ambiance of the communal spaces.
The avant-garde and artistic flair were truly showcased during dinner at ION Harbour, Iniala’s Michelin-starred restaurant located at the harbour.
The sampling course, which combined regional produce with inventive and original methods, featured highlights such as newly caught sea delicacies, ripe summer-grown veggies, and locally produced grape juices.
The menu showcased exquisitely presented meals, with alcohol-free pairings such as beetroot “champagne” adding an unexpectedly charming surprise. This highlighted the chef’s ingenuity and provided a distinctive experience tailored for individuals who opt for non-alcoholic choices.
The prime attraction of Iniala for me was its remarkable setting and closeness to all the attractions and bustling activity of Valletta.
Discovering Valletta uncovered numerous charming peculiarities: color-coded buses, tales of piracy, and nearly everyone claiming to have appeared in “Game of Thrones” during filming here, much to their delight. What’s clear is that out-of-season, the island gives you the feeling of having it entirely to yourself.
To gain further insight into Malta’s culture, I explored the island.
Palace Armoury
, boasting an extensive collection of weapons and armor. The admission fee is €10 (roughly $12 USD).
Art enthusiasts mustn’t overlook this.
MUŻA Museum
, highlighting both local and international artwork. The entry fee is €10 (approximately £8.50). It’s also within easy walking distance from Iniala, the
St. John’s Co-Cathedral
features one of Caravaggio’s most exceptional pieces. The admission fee is €15 (approximately £12.80).
There are also hidden gems such as the peculiar Chocolate District, featuring custom-made Artisan Chocolate Makers who produce ” Authentic Maltese Chocolate.” These distinctive chocolate bars tell stories about Malta’s history, its fruits, and the hard work of its people.
And you can explore the tastes of Valletta with a guide.
food and cultural exploration walking tour
through Malta’s capital.
Your guide will take you from a easily identifiable starting spot, leading you through gardens, significant monuments, and lesser-known treasures. En route, you’ll get to taste a selection of different things.
traditional street foods
This created a delightful and engaging experience. I developed feelings for Valetta, but Mdina captured my affection.
Following days brimming with pastizzi, history classes, custom-made chocolates, and Maltese fries that challenged all my previous notions about potatoes, I’m now certain that Malta’s real enchantment unfolds during the cooler seasons. The island proved to be a haven for food enthusiasts, irrespective of their spending limit.
It truly captures the essence of two contrasting cities—Mdina with its eternal allure and Valletta brimming with dynamic vitality. You have my heart, Gozo, yet I understand why Malta draws such crowds. The best-kept secret? Visit during the off-season.
This may appear straightforward, yet fortunate for you, it isn’t – as evidenced by the throngs of tourists who visit during the warmer months like spring and summer. Even when the weather turns colder, clear blue skies and ample sunlight persist throughout these less popular times of year.
That’s when you’ll experience the tranquility in Mdina, the opportunity to inhale deeply amidst the rugged charm of Valletta, and naturally, the possibility to fully uncover why this small Mediterranean island truly sparkles like a jewel.
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Rooms at
Xara Palace
begin at £195.57 per night per room on a bed and breakfast basis. Prices start at
Palazzino Belvedere
beginning at $2,071.69 per night.
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The room rates at Iniala Harbour House Malta begin at £331 per night for a double room with bed and breakfast included.
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